Athens

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Highlander
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Athens

Post by Highlander »

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We went to Greece shortly before Christmas.  Spent a couple of days in Athens then went elsewhere in Greece for several days before returning to Athens a week later.   A couple of days prior to leaving, Athens was impacted by severe riots.  We actually thought about cancelling the trip but did not want to blow the investment we had made in airline fare.  We went and had a great time.  Militant "anarchists", whose numbers were actually rather small, created a destructive swath through the city only a couple of days before we arrived but we were amazed at how quickly Athenians had repaired the damage, literally overnight in many cases.  Riots and protests persisted while we were there but they did not really impact our visit, in fact, we actually started going to watch out of curiosity.  In any event, the protests/riots were never as widespread or popularly supported as the media led us to believe, 99% of Athens was at any given time totally under control.

As European cities goes, Athens is not the most attractive by any stretch of the imagination.  The architecture is not particular distinguished but it does have several iconic places like the Acropolis and the city also encompasses several high hills that allow for great views of the city.   Here are several photos that hopefully convey an image of the city to those who have not had a chance to visit....

The Acropolis (photo from Filapoppos Hill).  Much to our chagrin, the Acropolis workers were on strike while we made our first pass through Athens.  When we returned, we visitied but it was on a cold, wet and windy day.

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The Parthenon at the Acropolis.  The place was essentially a major construction site while we were there.
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View South from the Acropolis on a crappy winter day

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Acropolis from Filapappos Hill with Lykavittos Hill behind.  We climbed Lykavittos on the last day for an incredible view.

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Wandering around Omonia and Psirri middle class districts in Athens.  Athenian merchants simply displayed their mechandise on the streets.

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Outdoor Meat Market in Psirri
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Street scenes in Monastiaki
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Touristy area at the base of the Acropolis known as Plaka


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Syntegma Square.  The building in the background is the Greek Parliment.  The area was highly impacted by the rioting.  In the picture the missing slabs were removed by the rioters to produce the stones to throw at the police.  In the second picture, the damage was repaired a few days later.

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The anarchists also vandalized a Christmas park in Syntegma Square and burned down the Christmas tree.  It did not take the Athenians long to rebuild the park and replace the tree.

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Police deploying into Syntegma Square as protest (usually accompanied by a riot) is beginning to kick off. 
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I was warned by the police shortly after not to take any pictures of them, I was also advised by Athenians that the anarchists were attacking people with cameras. 
Most, but not all, of the damage was repaired quickly, some buildings were burnt out and were beyond a quick fix. 
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I went past the above H&M Store on Ermou, the main shopping street, two days after it was attacked.  The street was nearly completely repaired other than H&M and was packed with Christmas shoppers.
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We also took a stroll into Exarcheia, which is where the rioting started, to see the outstanding National Archeological Museum.
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Next door to the Museum was the Polytechnical School where the anarchist had barricaded themselves and were busy making petrol bombs for the next riot (Greek police are banned by law from entering the Universities).   Stenciled out in front of the school were pictures of the kid who was killed while throwing petrol bombs at the police a week earlier which triggered the riots.
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The final pictures were from a climb of Lykavittas Hill on our last day in Athens.
Lykavittas Hill from near the Acropolis
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Slopes of the hill covered in Yucca and cactus
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Church on top.  The lady sweeping was the only person other than my wife and I at the top.
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Views from the top....
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Last edited by Highlander on Sun Dec 28, 2008 6:01 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Athens

Post by Roanoker »

Great pics! Thank you so much for taking them and then posting them here.
Highlander wrote: (Greek police are banned by law from entering the Universities). 
How in the world could such a law get on the books?
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Re: Athens

Post by Tosspot »

Thanks Highlander!

Is it "anarchists" so much as it just people really pissed off about their terrible economy? I've heard different stories from different sources.
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photoblog. 

until further notice i will routinely point out spelling errors committed by any here whom i frequently do battle wit
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Re: Athens

Post by Beermo »

Roanoker wrote: How in the world could such a law get on the books?
that's an easy one.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Athens_Pol ... c_uprising

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greek_mili ... _1967-1974

did you notice the pic of the queen from the sex pistols "god save the queen" single on the stencil?
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Re: Athens

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Tosspot wrote: Thanks Highlander!

Is it "anarchists" so much as it just people really pissed off about their terrible economy? I've heard different stories from different sources.
I think the violence emenates from a hodgepodge of groups.  The instigators according to the media are "self-styled" anarchists.  I heard a couple of interviews with some of the leaders who believed they were the vanguard of an anti-capitalist revolution.  Most of the Greeks I spoke with thought that most of the real problem causers were just hooligans out on a destructive rant.  Whoever they are, they do not have much popular support.  I talked to some students who were protesting and they told me they were going home if the "crazy people" show up.  Back in the summer, 200,000 people showed up at various protests but once the violence started, the protesters have not been able to garner more than 10,000 at any rally.  The crowds I saw were much smaller, probably less than 1000.  In any event, this kind of thing is pretty common in Greece but it was the scale of the destruction on the first couple of nights that was unusual. 

I've decided that it's nearly impossible to get an accurate idea of the security situation from media reports.  Listening to CNN and even the BBC, you would have thought all of Athens was ablaze and the city in turmoil.  Nothing could have been further from the case.

Roanoaker....

As you may have gathered from the links Beermo contributed, the law is such because the military junta entered the universities and crushed protests back in the 1970's.  That is pretty recent history and the event has left an indelible mark on Greek politics. 
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Re: Athens

Post by Beermo »

forgot to thank you for the nice pics. could you please continue posting many, many pics from europe. k.c is so last century.
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Re: Athens

Post by Gladstoner »

Highlander wrote: Roanoaker....

As you may have gathered from the links Beermo contributed, the law is such because the military junta entered the universities and crushed protests back in the 1970's.  That is pretty recent history and the event has left an indelible mark on Greek politics. 
Why not just have a law that prohibits the police from crushing protests?
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Re: Athens

Post by AJoD »

Tosspot wrote: Is it "anarchists" so much as it just people really pissed off about their terrible economy? I've heard different stories from different sources.
I have never known anyone to visit Athens, myself included, when there were not protesters and rioters demonstrating, dating back over 10 years, and covering probably at least that many visits.  They like to protest in Athens.
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Re: Athens

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AJoD wrote: I have never known anyone to visit Athens, myself included, when there were not protesters and rioters demonstrating, dating back over 10 years, and covering probably at least that many visits.  They like to protest in Athens.
What was unusual about this wave of rioting was the severity of the destruction.  Reportedly the worst since the end of the Junta in the 70's.  Having said that, it is pretty clear that protests and strikes are a normal occurrence in Greece and travel there can at anytime be impacted by strikes etc..  Bad as the riots apparently were, the strike at the Acropolis (totally unrelated to the riots) was actually more bothersome for most tourists. 
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Re: Athens

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Highlander wrote: What was unusual about this wave of rioting was the severity of the destruction.  Reportedly the worst since the end of the Junta in the 70's.
Wow.  It's a little unnerving anyway, but certainly more seriously the added destructiveness.  I was surprised to see the burned out storefronts and the shut-down H&M, for sure.
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Re: Athens

Post by kucer »

Great pics.  Spent two years there when my family was transferred to Kifisia just outside Athens in the late 70s.  I can't wait to go back sometime.
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Re: Athens

Post by omenapt »

1st time I've seen pics in the winter light!..Much better I think ,as you can see more contrasts  in the architecture and foliage.. Summer pics make all seem so bleached out white and searing hot!i
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Re: Athens

Post by ComandanteCero »

great pics Highlander, thanks for sharing!  Looks like it was a nice time in Athens, and it didn't look quite as overrun with tourists as other historic cities (maybe the rioters helped in that respect).

In terms of the autonomy of the university.  Yeah, that's true of lots of places in Latin America also.  University students often play a large role in political marches and demonstrations, with the campuses serving as the launching points/hq's.  Students sometimes get into pitched battles with police that can often grow into something uncontrollable (for either side), so for the safety of both sides the campus haven provides an escape valve.  Angry students with no recourse can be a very volatile group (i.e become organized insurgents/revolutionaries), so you have to keep everyone somewhat happy.  Making the campus off limits to police is part of that.  It's also symbolic that centers for learning and intellectual discourse are off limits.

I have a university student cousin who was recently involved in a pitched street battle, not against police, but against political thugs in favor of the government (the police had basically abdicated the streets to pro-government rioters who were running amuck against any and all anti-government demonstrators), the thugs were going to take over the campus so the student body was called to defend the "campus' autonomy".  Street battles ensued (the students won).

It's good fun  :lol:
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Re: Athens

Post by Highlander »

ComandanteCero wrote: great pics Highlander, thanks for sharing!  Looks like it was a nice time in Athens, and it didn't look quite as overrun with tourists as other historic cities (maybe the rioters helped in that respect).
We were also there in the lowest of the low seasons so that helped.  There were a few tourists there, mostly American-Europeans in the Isles and a lot of Japanese and Italians in Athens.  Come to think of it, there were a lot of Japanese in the Isles too.  The media would have had you believe that all of central Athens was a battleground and the truth was that the rioting, except for one relatively brief blow through the heart of the city on the Monday before we arrived, was extremely limited in area.
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