The American Restaurant

[chingon]

After living here for 6 years (much to my surprise), and eating out at a lot of local KC restaurants, both haute and low, I finally went to the American last night. I was a little drunk, as usual, but I have to say, this joint completley lived up to its reputation. I was stunned.

The meal I had there takes a very close second to an unbelievable meal I had at the late, great SoRedux on my "best non-homecooked meal ever" list.  I had a four course, with the cheese instead of dessert, and every course was incredibly well exuted. Strnagely, the weakest links were my salad and my entree, a situation which would normally be the strongest condemnation I might level at a restaurant of this caliber.  But even these two courses were out of this world relative to alot of the dishes I've been served at similiarly lauded KC restaurants.

The decor is dated, but classily so, and it says a lot about how far a little good taste can go.  I shudder to think about how more trendy interiors will look when they are as old as the American's, but I would advise those who are into a restaurant's ambience that the American certainly looks like a very upscale hotel restaurant in 1986.  I don't know when it was last refinished, but my feeling is that it was around the heydey of cocaine as an upper class drug.

They also employ the "multiple servers" approach, with a sort of team captain, and some aids. I dislike this for many obvious reasons, chief among them b/c I appreciate being able to tip based on how well I was served, not based upon some formula, and I think good waiters can read a table, especially in the course of a two hour meal, and adjust to a person's desires.  For instance, I will not tip based upon the quality of the food.  I tip based on whether or not it is delivered as ordered, whether drinks are attended to, and how a waiter adjusts to porblems like speed of eating.  I hate being interrupted while I'm speaking to people at my table, and I will stiff a motherfucker who butts into a conversation after I have asked them not to.  I also hate being reffered to by any pet name, such as 'hon' or 'darling'. Neither of these was a problem, as one would expect, but I was treated with borderline rudeness by a female server on two seperate occasions last night, but felt it would be unfair to punish our main server for said waitress' breech of etiquette.  Perhaps this is the idea - a little consequence free "good cop, bad cop" action for the waitstaff...
 
Otherwise, this restaurant trumped any other (still operating) dining experience I've had in KC, and indeed most other cities I've been too. I would highly recommend it for any kind of showcase/special occasion dinner one might have. Especially if you are a little drunk.

[chrizow]

great review, but...

could you please talk about the food?  k thx

[staubio]

great review, but...

could you please talk about the food?  k thx

...and the price.

[tat2kc]

Perhaps the decor looks dated to some. In 20 years, we'll either be damn glad the interior was preserved, or upset that it was redone and that we lost a classic restaurant design.

[chingon]

^^Maybe I didn't stress enough that I thought it was CLASSILY dated, nearing "vintage".

Re: price - My wife and I had a bottle with dinner and a few other drinks, which can cause wild fluctuations in price, but there is no deying the American is expensive, but worth it. We both had the four course and pre tip our bill was $240.

Re: food.  I am no food critic, and I thought the details of my meal would be 1. boring 2. entirely too subjective and 3. subject to menu changes.

[tompendergast]

The American really is a wonderful restaurant; I have been many, many times (the last time was two weeks ago), and I've never had any complaints or anything close to a disappointing meal.  It is one of only two restaurants in Missouri rated "four stars" by the Mobil Guide (the other is Tony's in downtown St. Louis).  The current head chef, Celine Tio (formerly head chef of the Ritz Carlton in Philadelphia), is a true nouvelle cuisineuse.  She shows a real mastery of combining otherwise unexpected ingredients to make very unique flavors.  That might be why she won the James Beard Award last week for best chef in the Midwest.  The wine list might be the most extensive for 500 miles, and the sommelier is incredibly knowledgeable and makes great suggestions.  The service probably is the best in town (although the Savoy might be on par): very considerate, suggestive, and personable.  The decor (some called it "dated" and "80s" above), which was designed by master chef James Beard at the behest of Don Hall (Hallmark owns the American), fits the space perfectly and provides for a light, airy, and personal environment.  I've heard it said that the reason the staircase leads down into the main dining room in the particular manner it does (where tables are spaced far apart) is that one ought to be able to see how many people one knows there when one enters.

The American is perfect for a special occasion, a business dinner, a nice night on the town, or even just drinks at the bar.  I do not see how anyone could say anything negative.

I notice above, however, that some people seem to complain about the American's prices.  For the quality of what is offered, the American's price range really is to be expected.  Perhaps it might seem high to some Kansas Citians (although it shouldn't - Plaza III, Starker's, the Savoy Grill, Le Fou Frog, and Tatsu certainly are comparable, if not about the same), but one really would expect to spend at least twice as much for the same type of cuisine in many other cities (try Daniel in NY, Chez Panisse in SF, or Charlie Trotter's in Chicago).  Complaining that the American is too expensive is as irrational as complaining that a truffle tastes too mushroomish.

[kuslamb]

Lots of good points tompendergast. 

I also really enjoy the American.  In your post, you mentioned a couple of my other favorites. 

Starker's - I have never been disappointed here.  Really enjoy the wine list and really enjoy limited seating and service.

Le Fou Frog - Probably my favorite.  I really enjoy the atmosphere here.  Always interesting people.  The food is great and it is truly impressive when the wait staff read the entire menu (written on a chalk board) to you, describing each dish.  I also enjoy the wine list.  Not the nicest in town, but plenty of interesting wines that are not easily found in KC and very reasonably priced. 

I actually at at Le Fou on Friday night.  We didn't end up going to the concert in the River Market and we were tired of the crowds, so we went and had a bite.  I had the lamb shank, and it was awesome.  Friends had the duck and the veal.  Both were really good.  We got out with three bottles of wine (my wife joined us and helped) for about 90 bucks each (w/ 20% tip).

If you have not been, give it a try.  We really fell in love with it when our buyer's agent was showing us places downtown.  We would look around for a couple of hours and then always end up at Le Fou Frog for wine and appetizers.

Try is soon...

[chrizow]

Re: food.  I am no food critic, and I thought the details of my meal would be 1. boring 2. entirely too subjective and 3. subject to menu changes.

drat.  i wont be dining at the american anytime soon, so i wanted to live vicariously through you.

[chingon]

It's cool that no one in other cities would "complain" about the American's prices, since no one here complained either.

[Maitre D]

but what did you eat?

[anniewarbucks]

Where is this restaurant?

[LenexatoKCMO]

Where is this restaurant?

Cantilevered on top of Hall's Crown Center. 

[anniewarbucks]

Doesn't this restaurant revolve or is the restaurant on top of the Hyat Regency the revolving restaurant.

[nota]

Doesn't this restaurant revolve or is the restaurant on top of the Hyat Regency the revolving restaurant.

You are thinking of Skies atop the Hyatt. American is much much glass, but doesnt' revolve.

[rosedalian]

Not sure if this should be here or in the Rumors section, but I heard they're going to renovate the interior.  I guess hell really has frozen over...although it is only a rumor.

[schugg]

does the American have blue interior? if so, I think I ate there about five years ago.

[DaveKCMO]

Not sure if this should be here or in the Rumors section, but I heard they're going to renovate the interior.  I guess hell really has frozen over...although it is only a rumor.

does your source work there? how worthy is the rumor?

[tompendergast]

Not sure if this should be here or in the Rumors section, but I heard they're going to renovate the interior.  I guess hell really has frozen over...although it is only a rumor.

The American is closed for six weeks for basic renovations and cleaning (no, they're not destroying the classic interior which it has had since it opened).  They do this every few years.  I had wanted to go to the American the other night, but was surprised to find out that it was closed, so my friends and I went to Morton's instead (which is located right below the American, next to Halls in Crown Center).  I asked the staff at Morton's if they knew why the American was closed; they told me that they know the American staff and heard all about it from them, and that's what they told me. I did recall the American being closed for a few weeks around three years ago.

does the American have blue interior? if so, I think I ate there about five years ago.

No, it is not blue.  It is light woods, mauves, and various pastel shades which aren't too bright.  I'm not sure what you're thinking of.