Swagger (8431 Wornall) -- gourmet dive bar

[heatherkay]

I'd seen a couple of things about this place -- in the KC Star, on Chowhound, and on yelp.  It's in the old Village Lounge location.  I'd been there once or twice when it was the Village Lounge, when the hub was playing at an open mic.  It was pretty dive-y then, with both kinds of beer -- Bud and Bud Lite.  But I'd heard that they were under new ownership, with someone in the kitchen that knew what he or she was doing.  We had to swing through Waldo today to run some errands, so we hit it up for a late lunch. 

First thing you notice is that, in spite of the year-old smoking ban, the smell of smoke never really goes out of carpet.  Second, the MAJOR upgrade to the bar.  I'd say that they had at least 30 or 40 beers on tap, including the full Boulevard suite and Tank 7.  I also spotted Bells and several Colorado beers.  Lots of top shelf liquors as well.  The interior looks like it is being upgraded one piece at a time.  It had been pinted, but still that smelly carpet.  Two pool tables. 

The folks in the bar when we got there, at about 2 pm on Saturday, were a Waldo cross-section.  A couple of folks from the tattoo parlor next door were getting lunch.  Some older folks hanging out shooting the shit.  The music selection was 70s vintage rock on a fairly decent sound system.

So, the food.  I had a pulled pork sandwich.  The sauce was oddly grainy, with lots of black pepper and curry powder.  Very good, but unusual.  The pulled pork was perfect.  Period.  Well smoked, lean, but moist.  Good bun.  Onion rings that might have been homemade -- a bit more batter than I like, but crispy.  Greg got the jerk chicken sandwich.  The chicken was spicy, but not very hot, good allspice flavor.  Sandwich had wasabi cole slaw that Greg said was good with the chicken.  He also got a side of chili, which I was not brave enough to order given the current climate.  I was made with beer and chunks of meat rather than ground beef.  Also very good.

Both of us got more food than we could eat, for less than $20 with tip.

[PumpkinStalker]

Thanks for the review!  I'll have to check that out. 30 beers eh?!

[heatherkay]

Maybe not 40, but 30 seems like a good estimate.  They had maybe 5 sets of taps, each with about 6 beers.

[Jess]

Hee, I discovered this one on the Waldo Crawldo...we started at the 75th end and finished up at the 85th end, since we live in the vicinity of 85th and Wornall.  Consequently, this was the 12th one we hit of the 13 bars on the circuit.  I should stop in again sometime when I'm more...alert and observant.  Yeah, that's it.  Alert and observant.

[elonalum]

we ate at Swagger a few weeks ago, the food was shockingly good...i am still dreaming about that cuban.  husband had a roast beef sandwhich that was also darned good - they roast their own beef.  i believe will the bartender said there were 42 beers on tap.  impressive! 

[shinatoo]

All 42 beers on tap says to me is that, unless you are running 250 people through there a night, you are going to have skunk-y beer from dirty lines and stale kegs. The best beer you will get is from a bar that has five to ten taps depending on their volume. Quality is much more important than quantity.

That said, fresh roast beef sounds awesome!

[elonalum]

husband and i were thinking the same thing - nice selection but if no one's drinking it...can it be any good? 

[WSPanic]

All 42 beers on tap says to me is that, unless you are running 250 people through there a night, you are going to have skunk-y beer from dirty lines and stale kegs. The best beer you will get is from a bar that has five to ten taps depending on their volume. Quality is much more important than quantity.

In my experience, bar volume has little to do with it. If the beer reps are doing their jobs, they should be cleaning the lines with their beer in it. Period. Given the relatively high density of bars in the area, they should be able to get there regularly.

[bobbyhawks]

I'll second that the food is shockingly good here.  Pulled pork and cuban are great.  I first read about this place in a piece the KC Star did about local higher-end chefs and the places they frequent.  Can't remember which chef cited Swagger, but they pointed out the focus on more local/quality ingredients, stuff made from scratch, and carefully smoked pork.  I have to agree.  For the value, it is some of the best standard bar food you can get.

[bahua]

All 42 beers on tap says to me is that, unless you are running 250 people through there a night, you are going to have skunk-y beer from dirty lines and stale kegs. The best beer you will get is from a bar that has five to ten taps depending on their volume. Quality is much more important than quantity.

In my experience, all you need to do to keep draught beer delicious is keep the lines clean. Most states(I don't know about missouri) have laws that apply specifically to the frequency of line cleanings. In most states the requirement is something like once every two weeks, the lines have to be cleaned. I, for example, just killed a keg that had been stewing in the kegerator for over eight months, and it was still delicous. It was just boulevard pale ale.

I agree though, that pissy American beer(budmillcoors) will go bad in a short time, but that's because it isn't really beer. Its low alcohol content and high-gravity brewing(make something that's 97% alcohol and add water) process see to it that they won't last under any circumstances.

[mean]

I agree though, that pissy American beer(budmillcoors) will go bad in a short time, but that's because it isn't really beer. Its low alcohol content and high-gravity brewing(make something that's 97% alcohol and add water) process see to it that they won't last under any circumstances.

It also doesn't help that they have so little flavor that off-flavors are really obvious really early.

[chrizow]

finally made it to swagger.  very cool place!  

was very impressed by the whisky/bourbon list and scotch list.  very good beer list as well, easily top 5 in the metro.  the bartender said they are expanding their scotch and tequila offerings even more soon as well, which means they must be doing well serving the good stuff.  very reasonable prices too.  the only bar serving rowan creek small batch bourbon too, from what i can tell, which is my current favorite.  

food was good too - we had bar snacks of chicken nachos, chili cheese fries, and wings.  the wings and nachos were standard, but the toppings on the nachos were fresh and a cut above.  chili cheese fries, which i usually dont like, were addictive.  the fried chicken plate special looked good and appeared to draw a crowd.  looking forward to trying the real food!  

bartender was very attentive as well.  

dive bar atmosphere, good TV viewing angles, good service, good food, premium beer and liquor list.  what's not to love!?  we'll definitely be back.  i'd really like to play records here.  

[KCMax]

Food Network favorite Swagger adding second location

Waldo favorite and Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives feature — Swagger restaurant and bar — is expanding.

It is taking the former Margarita’s spot at 13401 Holmes Road, for an early March opening.

[chrizow]

good to see they are successful, but they might have been a good fit for one of the River Market-area vacant buildings.

[smh]

good to see they are successful, but they might have been a good fit for one of the River Market-area vacant buildings.

I was really hoping that's what the post would say. Unfortunately, 134th and Holmes is an area I'm never likely to visit.


...and by unfortunately, I mean for Swagger, not for me.

[mean]

good to see they are successful, but they might have been a good fit for one of the River Market-area vacant buildings.

Or the old Corner Cafe?

[phuqueue]

What this city needs is more bars in areas that are only accessible by automobile. Can't wait to drive out to 134th Street to start drinking.

[brewcrew1000]

I thought this place was hurting considering they offer Restaurant.com certificates.

[WSPanic]

good to see they are successful, but they might have been a good fit for one of the River Market-area vacant buildings.

Or the old Corner Cafe?

I don't know how it works, but isn't it difficult to get a liquor license for a location that didn't have one before? Assuming that may keep The Corner Cafe spot from becoming a drinking establishment.

Plus, once you add a bar and make the kitchen usable, that space probably becomes too small.

Would love to see something there....

[earthling]

but isn't it difficult to get a liquor license for a location that didn't have one before?

Not in bar/entertainment districts. The Plaza has converted many retail spots to restaurants with bar with no red tape.